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Scooterer Stories, Part Fifteen – Bridges over the Jordan

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By Louis the Scooterer

Okay early up, sunrise seen, breakfast eaten.. lets go find some bridges that River Jordan flows under…in this area.

Remember we stopped at Arik bridge which is on the main road, where the Jordan flows into the north end of Kinerret (Sea of Galilee).. where many people stop and walk across to the other side..often seeing kayaks and canoes on the water? Now we go the same place and a couple of hundred meters from that Arik bridge is another old wooden bridge across the Jordan.. I have never seen people here altho’ its a beautiful spot..and definitely warrants a few minutes drive on the back road to get there.

We get into Jordan Park http://www.weekend.co.il/maslulim/ramatg/p_yarden/indexE.htm where many bridges cross the Jordan and also many walkers bridges have been built.

In the summertime this is a hive ..thousands of campers and holidaymakers and the place is packed, and hot and muggy and everyone just love what they are doing.

I was lucky to drive there on a cold wintry day and the places were deserted, and I met a man in charge of kyak rentals camping complex, who invited me to sit and drink coffee with him, and chat, as he is alone for many days. He took me around and explained a few things about the place, and led me to a notice board which showed the height of the Jordan River when in flood a few years earlier.

Many small “walkers bridges” have been built and in some places the Jordan River has been diverted into narrow streams and is less than 15 inches wide..yes 15″…nevertheless it IS the River Jordan and the Ole-Man river..just goes flowing along.

I’ve previously told about the bridges at Naharayiim and the story about Aunties bridge. Now we will take a short drive to the ruined Aunties bridge, but there is really nothing to see other than broken concrete.

Anyway its worth a short climb over the the rocks to see the Jordan flowing peacefully like a little stream.
Note..the Aunties Bridge may have looked similar to the one in the picture below when seen from high up as it was a simple concrete bridge through the water.

A few of the other bridges are very imposing and well built as is the Green Bridge,

and the twin (one-way) wooden bridges seen below

which are known as Jacobs Daughters Bridges..one of which had been (recently) totally rebuilt for two-way traffic, and now looks like any regular bridge.. with metal handrails and a very narrow sidewalk..
and the other has been closed,

and will remain as a tourist sightseeing attraction.

While on my “finding Jordan river bridges” mission..

there was always “another one” to find and cross..and the last one I found and crossed is an ordinary concrete bridge..leading to a moshav Khulata.

On one trip with scooter I arrived at a point from where I could see a long straight gravelroad with the river on left, and I wondered if that will take me to a “Jordan River bridge” as it was not marked on my maps..then I had a flat tyre and luckily had a tin of foam that inflated the tyre to allow riding for several kilometers to a pump.

I took the long gravel road and found the final bridge, a simple concrete bridge without any name or descriptions… which I crossed and have since returned several times. That first time, I then crossed a very small bridge at a gate and carried on riding on another straight road on the other side of the river… and to my surprise I took a turning that took me via the back road.. and I scootered into the Khula Nature Reserve.
On that occasion I was made welcome by the security and other people who worked at the visitors center…many making a fuss about the scooterman coming in the wrong route.

On another occasion in a rentcar I took the same roads and on entering the reserve I was followed by security who told me I should not be on that road, as the small gate should have been locked..?? and I was escorted to the main entrance gate, to leave the car in the main car-park.

There are no entrance fees into the Khula Reserve but no private vehicles are allowed inside the reserve, as many visitors hire tricycles and walk on all the tar roads as well as all the side roads to the bird fields.

So I believe I found every bridge that crosses the river… and with exception to the 3 border crossings, I have crossed and walked over every bridge..even all the walking bridges inside the Jordan Park.

Unfortunately, not everyone respects the ole’ man River Jordan, and some places are full of garbage..even a supermarket trolley, and very often there are build-ups of branches and small bushes that are washed away in storms or big winds.

One of these bridges is so nondescript.. a simple sort of concrete wall fence..covered with overgrown shrubbery,

and I actually couldnt recognise it as a bridge..I was lucky to see a tiny sign about 12 inches square nailed to a tree, faded word reading…”Shalma” (name of that bridge).

Okay, lets break away from bridges and take a drive to HULA RESERVE. Lots to see and do, and after watching a movie about the place, we will not hurry. http://www.parks.org.il/ParksENG/company_card.php3?CNumber=422020

There are many activities and pedalcars and golfcarts can be hired to ride only on paved roads, and I suggest we go on tractor ride into the bird areas..tractor pulls a closed trailer with seats and gets us close to almost touch the various birds.


Dont forget your binoculars and cameras.

By the way..there are also several unimpressive bridges that cross the man made canals, when the Jordan River was diverted..to become the nature reserve that we see today.

During certain seasons there are hundreds of thousands of birds on the ground..everyone pecking at something on the earth..and surely every bird has enough to eat. Occasionally a few thousand will take off and fly around in a big circle above us..then land and carry on pecking.

I have also spent time in a birdwatching “building” where expert birdwatching guides and rangers will answer questions about what can be seen through the openings. Saturday is always busy and I was “clever” to return another day when I was given VIP treatment without large crowds..and every facility will be open and available. I was the only passenger on the bus that takes you around the complex and the driver answered all my questions and gave much advice, and suggestions.

After a tiring but very satisfying few hours we have a snack n coffee at cafetaria, and head back in the dark to spend our final night at Kare Deshe.
Please leave a comment, or email louisdrinkingt@013.net

Scooterer Stories, Part Eleven, Up the West Bank

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Scooterer Stories
By Louis the Scooterer

The travels of Louis the Scooterer, a retired former South African who has found an unusual way of getting to know Israel.

Part Eleven – Up the West Bank of the River Jordan

We have refreshed ourselves at “HaLido” at Kalya Junction..at the north end of the Dead Sea.. now we get onto 90 north at “Beit Ha’arava junction”.

Note..(I made a mission to see every bridge that crosses the River Jordan, and that mission ended where we will now begin.)

A short drive on 449 to Allenby Bridge Crossing, ( a traveller can only cross the bridge with necessary travel documents ,) and casual visitors are not allowed. (Note..This bridge and 2 other bridges, at border crossings, do not cater for sight-seers, and I was not allowed to be on either of the 3 bridges…(also no picture taking permitted).

Back on 90, with Jericho on our left, we head north, and pass a few moshavim and kibbutzim that are earmarked for a future visit, and arrive at turnoff to Adam Bridge…some fading signs show “no entry”. We continue and I made a quick stop at Argaman kibbutz, but the coffeeshop / restaurant in a converted train carriage was not open..and I strolled around in a very large nursery looking at pottery and flowerpots, and when I drove out…two policemen in their patrol car waved me on.

(Another note is that Jordan River is pretty close on our right ( East), and visible are many very large “hothouses” and large greenhouses made of plastic or nylon, for growing fruits and vegetables.)

I was curious about a big advertising sign showing “an adventure holiday resort” at Brosh Ha Biqa, so I went into the cute restaurant at the filling station, had a lovely chat with the young Arab manager and also with a young man who stopped there for a coffee.


I was told the entire resort was temporary home for many families who were re-locating when they exited from their homes in the Gaza strip…and being a Saturday morning..I decided not to go in.
A few kms further I made a quick stop to buy fruit at this incredible stall… I was met by the biggest smile I ever saw, and his small sons posed for me on their well looked after donkey.

Always some interesting monuments, unfortunately not always someone around, to explain…

The border crossing at Sheik Hussein Bridge a short drive from Beit Shean is constantly busy with many taxis and many security personnel who politely invited me to U Turn and no pics allowed…I sneaked a pic through the rear view mirror.


On an earlier visit one early morning, the 2 security guards explained that there are no facilities for casual visitors. On that visit I actually saw the bridge from a short distance.
(another NOTE is that every other bridge (yes there are many) can be crossed, as they are not at border crossings…
(but the “finding bridges” mission is another story.)

So, into Beit Shean.. also many interesting sculptures..one in particular invited me to sit.

There are many ancient sights, and we will quickly visit a couple and walk around the amphitheatre and excavations. At the Regional Council office I was given coffee and a couple of lovely maps (belonging to the man in charge), and he specifically pointed me to visit the hydro-electric site…at Naharayiim..(soon we will be there!)

On the outskirts of Beit Shean, still going north on 90, is a lovely site to visit ..”The Roman Bridge”. A little walkaround, take some pics, and carry on…then drive through a few moshavim that are next to the Jordan river…always something to see and take pics.

Then a visit to “Old Gesher” is a must.. after passing a large empty fortress, we arrive at the entrance of the old kibbutz…with ruined bridges and buildings. Many interesting stories, and a movie in the small “cinema”, explains much about the place, and the area…be sure to ask to visit the model of the hydro-electric plant.
One major story is that when the kibbutz was under fire from enemy tanks.. plus other weapons…and the women of the kibbutz were trained to place explosives, and eventually blew up the bridges and railway bridge…that was under attack.

I rode on the fenced back road bordering the “Peace Island”, and arrived at Naharayiim…

the spot where 2 rivers meet (Yarmuk and Jordan,) and where the ruins of the hydro-electric plant remain. Stay a couple of hours minimum, (preferably during the rain season), to explore and walk around, crossing bridges

and seeing the 2 rivers meet. The plant and canals were built in 1929 and for several years supplied electricity, and ceased operating in 1948.


A tiny kiosk run by the local kibbuts have brochures and much information is available. Also behind the kiosk is a beautiful garden and lawn, there is a sad memorial to 7 young schoolgirls who were shot by a soldier when visiting the site. On a small rise are benches under a pergola to look at the magic views, so dont forget your binoculars.

Also available is a guided tour in your car across a bridge and into Jordan, and a drive through the Peace Island, with many explanations about this area of land that (as a “Peace gesture”) was handed back to Jordan.

After some snacks and drinks we take a back road through the lands of the kibbutz, and we need to “make a major decision”…as we will soon be entering the southern point of Kinerret.

Do we drive around the Sea of Galilee and then return to the point where we entered ?
or do we take the East route and “hug” the border with Syria ? A big decision ?…

Louis the Scooterer is 69 years old and it sounds like he’s just getting started.