Wave of the future

Wave of the future, A new awareness of chemical strengtheners and natural alternatives

By Diana Dudas

Although relaxing is a huge part of the black hair care industries income, sales from relaxers ,last year were down more than 5%. People are opting to go au naturel and there is now a definite trend towards natural hair. Later on we will look at non-chemical options (afro is definitely back); But for those who prefer the option of sleek shiny straight hair, lets answer some of your concerns on your choice of relaxers and how they will affect your hair.

Hairs chemical transformation

One of your first concerns will be the change of your hairs pH level. Hair in a healthy state should have a pH of between 4.5 – 5.5. Hairs natural oil, sebum, has a pH of 5. On the pH scale of between 1 – 14, 1 being the most acid and 14 being the most alkaline relaxers have a pH of between 8.4 and 14, thus changing your hairs naturally slightly acid state to alkaline. This will cause the hair to feel, dry coarse and in extreme cases you may experience hair breakage. It is therefore imperative to take good care of your newly relaxed hair by the use of pH balanced, treatment shampoos and conditioners.

Once the straightening solution has been applied to the hair, it will penetrate into the cortex (middle layer of hair), where it will react with the di -sulfide bonds, also known as the cysteine bonds. These bonds join together the protein chains, which are responsible for the structural stability and strength of the hair. This reaction will cause the protein chains to be broken and allow the hair to soften and take on a new form. Once this has occurred the hair is rinsed free of the solution so as not to allow any further softening to take place. The neutralizing process is then needed to repair the broken protein chains allowing the hair to be fixed into it’s new straight form. Chemical reactions can still occur up until 48 hours after your chemical service, so it is wise to wait at least that long before shampooing your hair.

Lye or no-lye

There are basically three types of hair relaxers. They are sodium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate:
Sodium hydroxide is the strongest of relaxers and is often called the lye relaxer. It is a very harsh, caustic chemical, and should only be used on coarse, extremely curly hair. The pH level is between 10 – 14 which means it has the most potentially harmful relaxer. And if not used with proper care can cause soreness of the scalp and dry, brittle hair.

No-lye relaxers are either Guanidine hydroxide (a combination of calcium hydroxide cream with guanidine carbonate), OR Ammonium thioglycolate. These have a pH of between 9 – 9.5, and are considered to be less damaging than the sodium hydroxide or lye relaxers. However it is still vital to give your hair the same TLC that you would give your hair with a sodium hydroxide relaxer.

New Ideas

A recent breakthrough in hair straightening is known as the thermal ionic or bio ionic system. Using an ammonium thioglycolate substance, with the aid of a flat iron maintained at 170° – 230°C, this process promises to transform your hair into permanently “pin-straight ” hair, that will be soft, shiny and frizz-free.

For this service your hair needs to be at least four inches long. You will have to completely grow out your relaxer. The service takes about three hours for short hair and 4 -5 hours for longer hair. Because of the time involved it is obviously a costly service. However the upside is that it only needs to be done every six months.

As with all other relaxers do not wash your hair for at least 48 hours. And use products that are pH balanced. Also with this particular service, it is not advised that you bleach or hi lite your hair at all afterwards.

Precautions

It is advisable when contemplating getting a chemical relaxer that you go to a hair stylist that is well respected in has plenty of experience. On your first visit to them, they should allow extra time to consult with you, check the porosity, elasticity and texture of your hair. Your scalp should also be checked for abrasions. This will allow them to determine the best type of relaxer for you, after which time a strand test should be done, to confirm their decision. During this time, records should be taken for future reference, and suggestions on after treatment hair care should be given. You should also be informed of how often you would need to return to the salon, so as to maintain your relaxed hair.

Non Chemical Relaxers

An exciting new approach to retexturizing hair are the non-chemical temporary strengtheners also known as a smoothing glaze. This innovative type of styling lotion allows you to choose when you want to go straight or stay curly, by temporarily relaxing curls. They are designed to straighten, reduce frizz and protect hair from heat. Look for natural ingredients such as Matricaria and wheat proteins. These lotions are normally humidity resistant also. For those who prefer the natural approach this is a great way to go:

Au Natural

With the increase in demand for natural alternatives to the 6 weekly regime of hair relaxing, there is obviously an increase of natural hair care experts. Offering new services in the maintenance of natural hair styles, such as the afro, , two strand twists, coils, braiding and locs.

As part of your natural heritage you may have learnt these techniques already. If not natural hair care experts are always willing to pass on their knowledge, of maintaining your look. Or you could maintain your natural look my a monthly visit to your salon.

Wave of the future

Natural hair care is the wave of the future . Women are becoming more aware of how harsh chemicals are on their hair and how toxic and harmful they can be to their health. There are more natural hair care salons now available and there is a new awareness about natural hair.

© 2003
Author Diana Dudas G.C.H.S.R.H. is an expert with more than 28 years experience in the beauty industry. She has answered over 2000 questions for allexperts.com and has had her work published in many well-respected beauty magazines both online and off.

Closet Poet

By Kim Knode
“My mom always called me a closet poet!” says popular, prominent award-winning author, April Wayland. She chuckles. Clearly, the lady preoccupied with climbing the corporate ladder yesterday is out of the closet today. Wayland piles a potpourri of her poetry and picture books (published by prestigious houses such as Knopf and Scholastic) on her kitchen table.

She plops comfortably on to squeaky snow-white plastic cushions arranged against a wall painted Tweety Bird yellow. With a sigh and then a smile, the renowned celebrity of the children’s literature world recalls her former career. As a Fortune 500 (company) marketing manager Wayland remembers attending meetings about million dollar budgets. (Although promotions in pay and position came quickly, Wayland was best known for the marching duck doodles attached to the meeting memorandums.)

She confesses, “Going into the corporate world was kind of like rebellion in my family. My dad was a farmer. My mother (a concert pianist) was horrified!”
Wayland laughs. “For a while it was exciting to wear a suit and carry a briefcase. It was like dressing up in a costume! But I was a square peg in a round hole,” she says. But she was determined to beat the odd kid on the block feeling. In 1984, Wayland sought out scintillating role models in the corporate system. One stellar senior suggested, “Keep work in perspective. And keep a colorful life outside.”

To enliven her after work life, Wayland turned to a UCLA Extension catalogue. On a whim, she enrolled in a children’s writing course. The class became the highlight and happiness of her week. “I couldn’t wait for Monday nights,” she exclaims. “I found myself.”

Albeit her appetite for big business was waning, Wayland persevered. She stoically continued to wade and march through mires of documents on her desk. She recalls, “My husband and I were calling each other on speaker phones from our offices on Sundays!”

Without a trace of pride, Wayland says, “I got the work done. I do well on deadlines.” She adds, “I was also eating three bowls of cereal for breakfast so I didn’t have to go out the door.”

In 1985, Wayland awakened to an epiphany. “I was sacrificing my body and spirit. I was thirsty for something they (the corporate world) couldn’t address.” Wayland asserts that she was willing to risk living “without fancy, frilly benefits.” Shaking off “the golden handcuffs” took top priority on her to-do list.

Wayland’s sunny demeanor slides away for a few seconds. “Tax season is the worst time to do it. But I told my husband (an accountant) that I was willing to give up our Brentwood home and live in a tent on beach if that’s what it took to be happy.”

His reaction? “He was in shock. But he didn’t say no,” says Wayland looking down to right an askew place mat. Four months after Wayland’s departure from the steel jungle of downtown LA, To Rabbittown, her first picture book, was accepted for publication. “And I’ve had a book published every three years – since 1988,” states Wayland.

Her word savvy certainly has won over the hearts of publishers and readers of children’s literature. Publishers Weekly says, “Wayland succeeds in making reading and writing poetry more accessible to teens.” Newbery award-winning writer Sid Fleischman simply declares her works, “Dazzling!”The beloved poetess/author says, “When I carve out writing work time today, it’s not a sacrifice. It’s a pleasure!” The tan author cups her cheeks in her palms. A shadow of concern crosses her face. “But I don’t want to mislead people,” she says. “I put an awful lot on my husband Gary. It’s his expertise in his field that carried us.”

Wayland asserts, “I can’t make a living on my own.” But she does contribute. “The way a picture book author makes money these days is to speak and teach. So, two weeks in the spring when it’s tax season, I go to Europe!” She chortles. “I go abroad to teach at military schools and American schools. I take my son (born in 1989.) It’s so much fun!”

In the autumn, Wayland offers Writing the Children’s Picture Book through UCLA Extension. Like the grape blossom which matures into a bold Bordeaux, Wayland is now a Wayshower for aspiring writers. A fitting role, perhaps, for a former UCLA Extension pupil whose poetry homework turned into The Night Horse. (“The book went out of print faster than you could sneeze!” says Wayland.)

“At first, I was sooo afraid to teach,” she whispers. Thankfully, a fellow author/professor pal prodded the fledgling instructor into remembering that each individual stamps his or her own work – writing and teaching – with his or her own style. Wayland scribbled a mantra for herself. “I am a snowflake. People are coming to me for my snowflakeness.” Apparently, Wayland’s “snowflakeness” is appreciated. One UCLA student, after a class, announced, “I feel invigorated. I not only learned about writing. I learned about life!”

Gems, garnets garnered by Wayland pupils include the art of the one-minute journal. The purpose? The writer discovered that the time restriction of sixty seconds to describe a day produces a “distillation and selectivity” of words. Poetry results from the exercise. Penning poetry is Wayland’s forte. Girl Coming in for a Landing is her latest work and is a collection of verses for adolescents. Accolades and accelerating sales are trailing the “novel in poems for teens.” The American Library Association (ALA) nominated Girl Coming in for a Landing as one of the Best Books for Young Adults. The poetry novel also landed on ALA’s 2003 Quick Picks for Reluctant Readers List. In addition, Wayland is the winner of the Myra Cohen Livingston Award for Poetry. The poetess is also the titleholder of the Lee Bennet Hopkins Honor Award for Children’s Poetry.

Looks like the closet poet (in a sleeveless t-shirt covered with clouds) has piloted herself into a heavenly life. “You bet!” says Wayland. “I have my health and love. So everything else is whipped cream!”

Due out for promotion next is Wayland’s Braces, Bras, Belly Rings – Body Poems. What future projects are you planning? If you need more information about coming out of the closet with your poetry, visit www.aprilwayland.com.
Kim Knode’s interview articles focusing on artists, celebrities and dance champions have been published in various print and on-line publications.